Signature Look Book

Signature Look Book

Spontaneous quilt designed by AGF Studio (free pattern)!

It's such an exciting day when Art Gallery Fabrics publishes the Look Book for a fabric collection and even more exciting when it's my Signature fabrics!

Signature fabrics can be found at your local quilt shop (or if not, be sure to ask for them to be stocked!) and online fabric shops like the ones listed on my Fabrics page. 

Find sewing inspiration within the 68-page Signature Look Book filled with beautifully curated projects and images.

Image courtesy of Art Gallery Fabrics

Floral summer dresses for that comfortable yet always put together look are a fashion must this year!

Discover cute bag and tote ideas and show off your Signature style!

Let's not forget the quilts! Download the free Sunflower quilt I designed for this collection or the gorgeous Spontaneous quilt designed by AGF Studio. 

I've been wanting to sew a second sampler with my Signature fabrics ever since my pretty bolts arrived and have come up with an idea for a low-pressure, summer to fall sew along that will be as fun for me as it will be for you. 

Starting this Friday for 17 weeks, I will host the My Signature Sampler sew along. Every Friday will be show and tell of a block plus the weekly giveaway all in one post. More details this Friday June, 22nd. If you want to get a jump on the Instagram hashtag pool, share the above sew along graphic along with the #mysignaturesampler hashtag. Follow me on Instagram @sharonhollanddesigns for inspiration and IG giveaway information. 

For a chance to win a bundle of Signature fabrics, visit the AGF Blog and enter to win!

Signature Butterflies

Signature Butterflies

When I was planning my projects for my new Signature fabrics collection for Art Gallery fabrics I created rooms and looks, then designed my sewing around what would fit into those rooms. 

One of the looks is what I'm calling the Signature Baby Room. I wanted a gender-neutral room for a baby or young child that loves nature. Using my granddaughter as my model toddler, I knew there had to be butterflies, because she LOVES butterflies!

My original inspiration for making butterflies using fabric came from Kim of Go-Go Kim. Kim has a great tutorial for gluing fabric to paper to hang butterflies in shadow boxes. I wanted to make a bit sturdier butterfly with all fabric and came up with a hybrid of sorts...

Materials Needed for Making Signature Butterflies:

• Signature Butterfly Templates
• Fabric scraps at least 1/4'' larger around than template size
• Heat n Bond Lite iron-on adhesive or similar product like Pellon EZ-Steam one-sided pressure sensitive fusible web (optional, see next item on list)
• Pellon TP970 Thermolam Plus Sew-in fleece (Note: If using a fleece with an adhesive side, omit iron-on adhesive product from the line above)
• Iron and pressing cloth
• Coordinating thread
• Scissors
• Air-solvable marking tool
• Spray paint (optional)
• Frame or shadow box

Making Butterflies

Download the Signature Butterfly Templates and print out at actual size. Check for accuracy using the 1'' reference square on the PDF. Cut out butterfly shapes. Tip: For a more durable template, print onto card stock paper. 

On the Pellon Thermolam Plus Sew-in fleece, trace around desired butterfly shapes, leaving at least 1/8'' between shapes. Note: There's no right or wrong side to sew-in fleece but if using a fleece with an adhesive side then draw on the non-adhesive side. 

Following the manufactuer's instructions, adhere the iron-on adhesive (Heat n Bond or EZ-Steam type product) to the unmarked side of the fleece. Omit if using a fleece with an adhesive backing.

My butterflies only have fabric on one side and those wishing to do the same can move onto the next step noting that my tutorial images reflect only one side with fabric. But, if you're planning on fabric backing both the front and the back of your butterflies then adhere iron-on adhesive to the marked side of the fleece as well before moving to the next step, leaving the paper backing on until ready to adhere to fabric.

Cut out butterfly shapes.

Following the manufacturer's instructions, fuse the adhesive side(s) of the fleece butterfly shape to the wrong side of desired fabric(s). 

Cut out butterfly shape using the edge of the fleece as your guide.

To add even more durability to your butterfly, add decorative stitches around the shape, add details like body shape, or embellish as desired. 

I always love playing around with materials and thinking outside the box. Because I wanted to add a bit of bling to my butterflies and include some metallic elements I decided to try spray painting the backs. 

Using a piece of cardboard and pin to hold the butterfly in place while I sprayed it I was very pleased how the gold spray paint took on the fleece backing. It didn't change the feel of the fleece and gave a nice gold tipped edge to my creations. 

After the spray paint dried, I could go back in and add more dimension to my butterfly by folding and sewing very close the the folded body edges. 

Let Your Imagination Soar!

Once know this technique for fusing fabric to fleece and making butterflies, the sky's the limit to what you can create. 

My largest butterfly became an unique piece of art when I hand stitched it to the center of a rush placemat from Target. 

I used this technique to cover a mirror with fabric faced fleece and simply glued the fleece in place with Aleene's No-Sew Fabric Glue so it's non-permanent and can easily be removed with water in the future. 

To fill the gaps between my mirror backing and the frame I used fabric glue to attach some Dritz natural-colored Twist Cord to act like decorative molding. 

A 3-D butterfly was simply pinned with a decorative straight pin directly to the fabric backing. 

For this bejeweled shadow box I fleece backed fabric in the same technique as in the above projects and cut a backing size to fit a dollar store shadow box frame that had a saying printed on the backing. The opaque quality of the fleece blocked out the saying on the picture. Before hot gluing the fleece back fabric to the frame I pinned vintage brooches to the fabric for a one-of-a-kind, nature-inspired wall art. 

Hoop Art

For a more traditional way to create art for your walls and bring nature inside is to use prints from my Signature and embellish them with embroidery and appliqué. For my Hoop Art I fussy cut a bouquet from my Extempore Celebration print and appliquéd a dragonfly, bee, and butterfly from the Small World Sprightly print. 

Starting with an over-sized square each I sandwiched the following materials: Extempore Celebration right sides up on top, Hobb's Tuscany Silk batting in the center, and a Pure Element solid right side out on the back. I embellished the main print with embroidery and quilting stitches then added needle turn appliquéd cut outs from the Small World Sprightly print with blanket stitch edge detail. 

Once all the needle work was done, I re-stretched the art in the hoop, secured it tightly with the screw at the top, then trimmed the edge of the fabrics even with the edge of the hoop. 

I hope this gives you some new ideas for how to customize and create art for your home. So many more things can be done with these techniques--I hope you'll give it a try!

Fabric Fringe Wallhanging

Fabric Fringe Wallhanging

We've all seen beautiful macrame and fringy wall art pieces in stores and on Pinterest and wished we could afford or make something like that. Well, now you can! 

Fabric Fringe Wallhanging Tutorial

This is a great beginner project or one to involve your kids in for a summer craft. They'll love being able to customize the look for their room!

This tutorial is based on a wallhanging that measures appoximately 36'' x 36''. See below for customizing the size of the strips. Read through all instructions before beginning.

Here's what you'll need:

• One 3/4'' x 36'' stick or dowel rod
• Spray paint (optional)
• 2-3/4 - 3 yards total assorted cotton fabric
•  Dritz Twist Cord

The fabrics used in my Fabric Fringe Wallhanging are from my new Signature fabrics collection for Art Gallery Fabrics. Because I wanted this wallhanging to have a more sophisticated look I spray painted my stick gold and finished all the edges of my strips so no raw edges showed.

I don't normally have wall decor like this in my house because as someone with allergies it's a dust catcher in my mind but...because all the edges on the strips are finished this hanging could be easily disassembled and laundered!

Assembly

For a wallhanging the size of this sample: Cut appoximately (24) 4'' x 42'' strips. I varied the length of my strips from around 21'' long down to 6'' long. You'll need about 975'' total length of 4'' wide strips. 

Place ends of strips right sides tougher at a 90° angle and stitch on the diagonal as shown above. Keep adding varied lengths strips in the same manner to make one long strip that measures approximately 975''. Trim seam allowance to 1/4". Press seams open.

Cut Fringe Length

The stick I used is about 36'' long so that's the length my center fringe will hang down. Because we use a double length to loop the fringe over the stick, all measurements will be doubled plus an additional inch for hemming. 

Cut the following from the long strip.

• (3) 73'' long strips
• (4) 67'' long strips
• (4) 61'' long strips
• (4) 55'' long strips

NOTE: If customizing your wall hanging use the following formula to determine the cutting length for fringe. 

Customize your Fabric Fringe Wallhanging to any size stick or dowel rod by using the length of the stick (or rod) as the length of the longest fringe strips in the center of the wallhanging. Each subsequent step of the strips that create the "V" shape of the wallhanging are made in 6'' step-up increments. Note: If using a very skinny stick or rod the width of the starting strip should be narrowed to keep the fringe scale in proportion to the stick. 

• Length of stick times 2 = Center fringe length 
• Center fringe length plus 1'' (for hemming) = Center fringe cut length
• Center fringe cut length minus 6'' then add 1'' (for hemming) = First step fringe cut length
• First step fringe cut length minus 6'' then add 1'' (for hemming) = Second step fringe cut length
• And so on for as many steps you want to add

Once all lengths have been cut from the long strip it's time to finish the raw edges of the fringe. 

Fold a fringe strip lengthwise in half with wrong sides together and press. 

Open the fold then press a short end over 1/2'' to the wrong side. Repeat for the other short end. 

Press the long raw edges in toward the center fold. Refold on the center crease, encasing the raw edges. 

Sew around all four sides of the fringe close to the edge. 

In the same manner, finish the remaining fringe strips.

Starting from the center with the longest fringe, fold a fringe strip in half to form a loop. 

Place the loop behind the stick and bring the ends of the fringe over the stick and through the loop.

Pull the ends through the loop to tighten fabric to the stick. Fluff and adjust the strip as needed to lay flat. Continue adding additional strips to either side of center working from the longest to shortest strips to create a "V" shaped wallhanging.

Use Dritz cording in desired color to hang your creation. Simple loop and knot can be adjusted as needed for handling and easily removed. The length of cord hangin below the stick can be a design feature. Knot the ends of the cord to keep from unraveling. 

I had extra cording so I added two fringes of cording in the center of the wallhanging.

Be as creative as you want and add other embellishments like yarn, feathers, leather strips, or ribbon to make your own decorator statement!

Yo-Yo Pillow

Yo-Yo Pillow

The final installment in my pillow series is this fun Yo-Yo Pillow. Yo-yos and pillows made from yo-yos are nothing new but it's something I've not seen done for awhile and there may be lots of new sewers out there that don't know how to make them.

Yo-yos are hand stitched from circles of fabric. I used a 6'' diameter circle to make mine but you can use whatever size you'd like. The smaller the starting circle, the smaller your finished yo-yo will be. They shrink considerably once stitched up and my finished yo-yos measured around 2-1/2'' across.

Yo-Yo Pillow

Materials needed to make an 18'' square finished pillow

• For front foundation and backing: Two 18-1/2'' squares for 1/4'' seams Lapped Zipper Back or two 19'' squares for 1/2'' seams Hidden Zipper back
• For yo-yos: Sixty-four 6'' diameter fabric circles
• One 14'' invisible zipper
• Aleene's No-Sew Fabric Glue
• One package 1/4'' -wide Dritz Wash Away Wonder Tape
• Zipper foot attachment
• Needle and thread
• Embroidery thread and needle
• Marking tool and ruler

Knot the end of a length of thread. Hiding starting knot on the wrong side of the fabric, turn circle edge 1/4'' under to wrong side while hand basting a running stitch 1/8'' from edge. Leave thread in needle and do not knot end when basting stitch reaches the starting knot. 

Pull loose thread end to gather, forming a yo-yo. The gathered edge will be pulled to the center. 

Flatten the yo-yo, centering the gathered closure. Secure thread with a double knot and hide thread inside the yo-yo. Make a total of 64.

There's a few ways you can connect your yo-yos for a pillow top. One way would be to stitch the yo-yos together with tiny stitches along the edges at four points like a compass then attach the connected circles to the pillow top. 

Another way would be to blanket stitch the yo-yos to the pillow foundation (leaving the appropriate 1/4''-1/2'' seam allowance around the edges of the foundation for pillow assembly.

I chose a middle road and "X" stitched my yo-yos directly to the foundation at four points. 

Since I only had an 18-1/2'' square piece of Art Gallery Fabrics Apricot Sunrise Smooth Denim I needed to take care not to stitch my yo-yos in the 1/4'' seam allowance area. I used the 1/4'' mark on my Omnigrid ruler as a guide. 

Since my yo-yos aren't perfectly sized and I wasn't sure if the amount made would fit my pillow foundation I wanted to have all the yo-yos in place before I started sewing. To keep my yo-yos in place without pinning, I put a dab of Aleene's No-Sew Fabric Glue on the back of each yo-yo and worked from the outside edges of the foundation in toward the center.

Once all in place and working on a flat surface, I hand stitched the yo-yos to the foundation with 3-ply strands of Aurifloss embroidery thread. Tip: Leave the side of the yo-yo nearest the foundation raw edge unstitched until after pillow is assembled. By leaving these sides free, the edge yo-yos can be folded in toward the center of the pillow durning assembly and stay free of the seam allowance area.

Stitch at four points and secure on back with double knots. 

Assemble the pillow using either my Lapped Zipper Back or Hidden Zipper tutorials.

I finished my pillow with a lapped zipper back in Signature fabrics Extempore Gala canvas.

After the pillow has been assembled, go back and finish hand stitching the edge yo-yos to the pillow. Insert an 18'' square pillow form.

Hand stitching yo-yos is a great take along pastime and perfect for lazy summer days of relaxing, mindless sewing on the go or just sitting at home. 

I hope you enjoyed these pillow projects. I've still more projects to post here before the Signature Look Book is published so come back and visit real soon for more summer sewing ideas.