Fabric Fringe Wallhanging

Fabric Fringe Wallhanging

Signature Fabric Wallhanging.jpg

We've all seen beautiful macrame and fringy wall art pieces in stores and on Pinterest and wished we could afford or make something like that. Well, now you can! 

Fabric Fringe Wallhanging by Sharon Holland Designs.jpg

Fabric Fringe Wallhanging Tutorial

This is a great beginner project or one to involve your kids in for a summer craft. They'll love being able to customize the look for their room!

This tutorial is based on a wallhanging that measures appoximately 36'' x 36''. See below for customizing the size of the strips. Read through all instructions before beginning.

Here's what you'll need:

  • One 3/4'' x 36'' stick or dowel rod
  • Spray paint (optional)
  • 2-3/4 - 3 yards total assorted cotton fabric
  •  Dritz Twist Cord
Signature Wallhanging Closeup.jpg

The fabrics used in my Fabric Fringe Wallhanging are from my new Signature fabrics collection for Art Gallery Fabrics. Because I wanted this wallhanging to have a more sophisticated look I spray painted my stick gold and finished all the edges of my strips so no raw edges showed.

I don't normally have wall decor like this in my house because as someone with allergies it's a dust catcher in my mind but...because all the edges on the strips are finished this hanging could be easily disassembled and laundered!


Fabric Fringe Hanging-01.jpg

For a wallhanging the size of this sample: Cut appoximately (24) 4'' x 42'' strips. I varied the length of my strips from around 21'' long down to 6'' long. You'll need about 975'' total length of 4'' wide strips. 

Place ends of strips right sides tougher at a 90° angle and stitch on the diagonal as shown above. Keep adding varied lengths strips in the same manner to make one long strip that measures approximately 975''. Trim seam allowance to 1/4". Press seams open.

Cut Fringe Length

The stick I used is about 36'' long so that's the length my center fringe will hang down. Because we use a double length to loop the fringe over the stick, all measurements will be doubled plus an additional inch for hemming. 

Cut the following from the long strip.

  • (3) 73'' long strips
  • (4) 67'' long strips
  • (4) 61'' long strips
  • (4) 55'' long strips

NOTE: If customizing your wall hanging use the following formula to determine the cutting length for fringe. 

Customize your Fabric Fringe Wallhanging to any size stick or dowel rod by using the length of the stick (or rod) as the length of the longest fringe strips in the center of the wallhanging. Each subsequent step of the strips that create the "V" shape of the wallhanging are made in 6'' step-up increments. Note: If using a very skinny stick or rod the width of the starting strip should be narrowed to keep the fringe scale in proportion to the stick. 

  • Length of stick times 2 = Center fringe length 
  • Center fringe length plus 1'' (for hemming) = Center fringe cut length
  • Center fringe cut length minus 6'' then add 1'' (for hemming) = First step fringe cut length
  • First step fringe cut length minus 6'' then add 1'' (for hemming) = Second step fringe cut length
  • And so on for as many steps you want to add
Fabric Fringe Hanging-02.jpg

Once all lengths have been cut from the long strip it's time to finish the raw edges of the fringe. 

Fold a fringe strip lengthwise in half with wrong sides together and press. 

Open the fold then press a short end over 1/2'' to the wrong side. Repeat for the other short end. 

Press the long raw edges in toward the center fold. Refold on the center crease, encasing the raw edges. 

Sew around all four sides of the fringe close to the edge. 

In the same manner, finish the remaining fringe strips.

Fabric Fringe Wallhanging assembly.jpg

Starting from the center with the longest fringe, fold a fringe strip in half to form a loop. 

Place the loop behind the stick and bring the ends of the fringe over the stick and through the loop.


Pull the ends through the loop to tighten fabric to the stick. Fluff and adjust the strip as needed to lay flat. Continue adding additional strips to either side of center working from the longest to shortest strips to create a "V" shaped wallhanging.

Fabric Fringe Hanging.jpg

Use Dritz cording in desired color to hang your creation. Simple loop and knot can be adjusted as needed for handling and easily removed. The length of cord hangin below the stick can be a design feature. Knot the ends of the cord to keep from unraveling. 

I had extra cording so I added two fringes of cording in the center of the wallhanging.

Signature Wallhanging Strips.jpg

Be as creative as you want and add other embellishments like yarn, feathers, leather strips, or ribbon to make your own decorator statement!

Perfect Patchwork

It's been exciting to learn so many of the Sewcial Bee Sampler Makers are new to quilting! Teaching people how to sew patchwork is as rewarding for me as it is for my co-host Maureen Cracknell. We love seeing all the blocks being made and following you via the Instagram #SewcialBeeSampler hashtag and watching your creative journey in the SBS block-of-the-week sew along. 

We're a week and a half into the virtual sew along and I've gotten some questions from new quilters about achieving better points on their blocks. I've put together a little tutorial in hopes of answering some of these questions and list some patchwork basics to improve your piecing experience. 

Cutting the Strips

Using a rotary cutter, rotary cutting mat, and acrylic ruler are essential for making straight and accurate pieces.

1. Press fabric. Fold the fabric in half with selvage edges matched. Place the folded fabric on the cutting mat with the fold edge nearest to you and ample mat area extending beyond the fabric. Note: If working on a small mat, you may need to fold the fabric twice so the first folded edge is even with the selvage edges and the second double-fold is nearest to you.

2. Place a square ruler on top of the fabric with the edge of the ruler aligned with the fold closest to you and near the left edge of the fabric raw edges. Position the long side of a 24'' ruler against the left edge of the square ruler and ½'' to 1'' in over the left raw edge.

3. Carefully slide the square ruler out of the way while keeping your left hand firmly on the long ruler. Note: The raw edge of the fabric should be completely under the long ruler and fabric to be cut and there should be ample mat area around the fabric to be straightened.

4. Hold the rotary cutter next to the right edge of the long ruler and roll the cutter away from you using a firm, downward pressure while cutting through the layers of fabric. As you cut through the fabric walk your fingers up the ruler to keep even pressure on the ruler.

5. Remove the trimmed starting edge without disturbing the straightened edge of fabric and you're ready to begin cutting strips.

6. Cut width of strips according to pattern by aligning the vertical markings on the long ruler with the straightened fabric edge, using the horizontal markings for the desired strip width. Tip: Add Glow-Line™ Tape onto your ruler to mark the strip size for quick reference. Hold the ruler in place with your left hand and walk your fingers up the ruler to keep even pressure on the ruler when cutting through the layers to make a strip. If you are left-handed the steps for rotary cutting are the same; except you cut from the right side of the fabric instead of the left. 

Strip Cutting 4.jpg

How to Sub-Cut Strips

Cutting quilt block pieces from strips is a time-saver and makes the piecing process easy because you're working with accurate-sized shapes. 

1. Place a folded strip on the cutting mat in front of you horizontally with folded edge on your right (on the left if left-handed). Use a ruler to square-off the ends of the strip, removing the selvage edges.

2. Align the straight edge of the strip with the ruler marking that corresponds to the width of the piece indicated on the pattern. Cut the number of pieces needed from the fabric strip(s), opening the folded end, if necessary, to cut a single layer of fabric. For strips longer than my ruler is wide, I rotate the ruler, running the long side even with the long side of the srtip.

Strip Cutting 5.jpg

Seam Allowance

Patchwork pieces are cut with an additional ¼'' seam allowance on all sides. The cutting instructions for all the Sewcial Bee Sampler blocks have already included the seam allowances.

The term finished block or finished size refers to a block once it's sewn together. This reference no longer includes the seam allowances in the final measurement. A finished quilt can vary in size from the actual given size on the instructions because of variations in sewing, quilting, and shrinkage. Before we sew the Sewcial Bee Sampler blocks into the sashing setting and finish our quilt top, all the blocks (with framing, if applicable) should be measuring at an unfinished 12-1/2" square. 

Checking the accuracy of your ¼'' seam allowance before you start sewing is an important first step in achieving perfect patchwork. If your seam allowance is off, too wide or too narrow, by even a fraction these small amounts can add up to significant differences when piecing blocks and assembling a quilt. Stitching with a ¼'' presser foot does not guarantee an accurate seam allowance and a test should be done to understand what adjustments, if any, are needed before beginning your patchwork project.

An easy way to see if your sewing machine is hitting the ¼'' mark is to place a sheet of quarter-inch rule graph paper under the needle on your machine and lower the needle to where two perpendicular lines intersect and cross. If the right edge of the presser foot aligns with the closest quarter-inch mark then no further action is needed.

If you don't have a proper ¼'' presser foot, you can always mark out ¼'' seam allowances using a specially marked ruler. This works well for marking stitch lines when sewing half-square triangles, but can be time consuming.

To adjust your sewing machine, try these steps: If the right edge of the presser foot extends beyond the nearest quarter-inch mark and your machine has the ability to move the needle side to side adjust the needle position to the left until the right side of the presser foot aligns at the quarter-inch mark. Make note of this adjustment and reset your needle position each time you need a ¼'' seam allowance for sewing. Likewise, if the initial position test shows the presser foot to the left of the mark move the needle position to the right to adjust placement.

If you are unable to re-position your sewing machine needle then placing a temporary tape guide on your sewing machine the throat plate will help you keep the edge of your patchwork straight and aligned for accurate ¼'' seam allowances.

Next time I will give some basic pinning and pressing tips. Just remember, accurate cutting and precise seam allowances will make piecing so much more enjoyable. Less frustration means more time playing with fabrics and planning your next block!


If you've been following my posts on Instagram @sharonhollanddesigns then you know I've now started 2 sampler quilts! The second quilt will feature fabrics from my first four Art Gallery Fabrics collections: Gossamer, Sketchbook, Coastline, and Tapestry plus two new fabrics recently release in the new AGF Fusions lines. Fusions are re-colorings of the most popular AGF prints from the different AGF designers and regrouped into fresh and fun mini collections. 

Don't forget to visit Maureen's blog to enter this week's giveaway (ending Monday). Wednesday we will be releasing block #3! 

Happy sewing